Striped Chambray for the Curatory
I made these neckties in a manner idiosyncratic to a tailor named H.A. Otter. It took me a number tries to understand his method of making a tie, which is practical, efficient, and elegant. His ties were not cut on the bias, they were cut with the weft (across the fabric's width), as are mine. The most interesting thing I discovered in the process of making them was that the tie's flare was actually a function of its manufacture.
While my ties are influenced by the construction and design of Otter's neckties, their aesthetics and proportions are modern. Having a length of 55" and front width of 3", their overall proportions were determined by what I feel is comfortable. Their backs are square and utilize the fabric's selvedge as a design element, an idea I borrowed from the makers of Hill-Side neckties, Emil & Sandy Corsillo, whom I respect very much.
The fabrics I used are vintage denim and have different dates of manufacture. The blue and the red ties are both Erwin Mills Sport Denim from around the 1940s. The denim for the charcoal and striped ties have a similar feel to the Sport Denim, but their fabrics were not labeled when I found them, so I can't be sure of their manufacturer. The chartreuse colored denim is the most unusual of the lot, and has bits of cotton seed in its weave, leading me to believe it was woven earlier than the others, maybe in the 1930s.
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